A motley group of thoughts implore me to reminisce home. It’s not the squish of summery peaches or the engulfing aroma of warm cookies when I walk into a mall although they’re just as pleasing. It’s more the rhythmic clunk of a ladle and an iron pan when amma roasts groundnuts and jaggery to appease my dad’s sweet tooth, the voice of Subbalakshmi spinning through a languid morning, possibly even the faint whirr of vehicles outside our window but mostly, delicious thoughts of a meal feasted on a gigantic banana leaf.
South Indian gatherings have a flair for conjuring a loud rumpus and I mean this in a good way. Palpable excitement, colour and good food served on a plate shaped by Mother Nature herself .This oblong and dramatically designed leaf is generously laden with traditional and authentic dishes like Payasa(kheer), a sundry of Palyas(dry curries), Pickles. Chutneys, Dal(lentils), Sambar(spicy lentil stew), Rasam fragrant with ghee,Gojjus & more. The flavours emanating from the leaf dance delicately with those from the food and elevate a mere lunch to an experience fit for the Gods. Among the plethora of foods that land on the leaf, the one I yearn for the most is the Pineapple Gojju.
A gojju is essentially a savory side dish with a delicious intermingling of sweet, spicy and tangy. Sometimes cooked to create a stew-like dish but many times(like this one), it is not. These uncooked gojjus are referred to as Hasi Rasas(raw gojju) in Kannada because the mixture is not simmered. Lemons, raisins, raw mango etc be used to make this gojju but pineapples always have been a personal favourite.
The tang and sweet essences from pineapples mingle with the spices to create a sensational experience which when mopped up with cold curd-rice transpires into bliss. Or if you prefer, gently mix it with some hot rice and a tiny bit of oil to drive away those dreaded Monday afternoon blues. Pairs well with chapatis too. In fact this dish tastes better the following day owing to the pineapples marinating in it, making it a little sweeter and a whole lot more divine.
Hope you like this one!
RECIPE FOR PINEAPPLE GOJJU
1/2 tsp oil
1/2 tbsp Urad dal
1/2 tbsp chana dal
1 tbsp Dhaniya/coriander seeds
1 tsp Menthe/Fenugreek seeds
13 dried Kashmiri Chillies
2 dried Guntoor Chillies(see notes)
A pinch of Hing/Asafoetida
3/4 cup dry coconut slices/VaNakobri
1/2 tbsp scant, thick tamarind paste(I used store-bought)
1/4 cup grated Jaggery
Salt to taste
1 cup Pineapple- chopped and cubed into 1 cm pieces
1 + scant 1/4 cup water
1 tbsp oil
A small handful of fresh curry leaves
1 tsp mustard seeds
-In a kadai/wok, heat 1/2 tsp oil. To this , add Urad Dal, Chana Dal, Menthe/Fenugreek, seeds, Coriander seeds, Hing and both chillies. Fry on medium-low flame until the lentils are a nice, deep golden. Transfer the contents to a plate and let cool
-In the same kadai, without adding any oil, roast the dry coconut slices in a medium-low flame, stirring constantly until they turn a light brown. Transfer to a plate and let cool.
-In a mixie jar/food processor, minimally grind the dal/lentil mixture, it should be half ground. Add the cooled coconut slices and grind completely until a coarse blend is achieved. Now add the salt, jaggery, tamarind paste and water so that a slightly loose but coarse paste is formed. Taste to check if any extra salt, tamarind, chillies or jaggery is necessary
-Pour the mixture into a bowl and fold in the pineapples.
-To make the tempering, in a small kadai/tadka pan, heat oil. Add mustard seeds and allow them to splutter. Turn off heat and then add the curry leaves. once they crisp up, add this tempering to the gojju.
-Can be served immediately but even better if you let the pineapple marinate in the gojju for an hour or two, then serve.
-I used store bought concentrated tamarind paste which is rather strong. If you’re using dried tamarind and making the tamarind pulp from that, you will need to use more than the amount specified above.
-Guntoor chillies can be quite spicy. If you want a less spicy gojju, just skip them.
-The gojju tastes better the following day(refrigerated) owing to the marinating pineapples, making it a little more sweet. I do not recommend using it beyond a day or 2.